Serving homeowners across York County, PA

Radon Mitigation
York PA

Straightforward radon mitigation for York County homeowners, installed right the first time, at a price you know before we drill.

Written, all-inclusive pricing. No cost overruns.
Exterior radon mitigation fan and vent pipe installed on dark siding
Clear air
starts here.
York County · PA
The local radon guy
Written pricingAll-inclusive before work starts
Post-mitigation testingIncluded on every mitigation job
York County localDan is on every job
Dan Jenkins beside a radon mitigation system in a basement
Meet your local radon guy

I Quote Your Radon Mitigation Job, Not a Number Off the Shelf

I'm Dan Jenkins. I spent years mitigating radon for homes across York County before going out on my own, and I built this business around the thing that used to frustrate me most in this industry: homeowners getting a number over the phone, then watching it grow once the crew shows up.

I've spent the last 30 years living between Bucks County and York County. Downtown York rowhomes on stone or rubble foundations, newer builds out toward Springettsbury and Spring Garden Township, older farmhouses with two or three foundation types under one roof—my crew and I have mitigated all of it.

  • Written, all-inclusive pricing
  • Post-mitigation testing included
Read Dan's full story
Why York County calls Dan

What You Get Working With
Radon Mitigation York PA.

Clear answers and careful work, from the first walkthrough through the final test.

01

I Diagnose Before I Quote

Every foundation is different, so you get a walkthrough before a number, not a driveway guess.

02

I Explain What I Find, in Plain English

If your existing system isn't working, I'll tell you why, not just sell you a new one.

03

I Stand Behind the Install

Post-mitigation testing is included on every job, not an upsell.

04

I Show Up When I Say I Will

And I clean up when I'm done.

How radon mitigation works

A System Built
Around Your Foundation.

Stone, hollow block, poured slab, crawl space—your house decides the plan, not a script.

01

Walkthrough

I check your foundation type, slab cracks, control joints, open sumps, and crawl spaces.

02

Suction Point

We create the suction your foundation needs and make sure the vacuum reaches every section.

03

Pipe + Fan

Schedule 40 PVC and a continuous fan pull soil gas out and vent it safely above the roofline.

04

Seal + Retest

Cracks, joints, and sump lids get sealed. Then I retest to confirm the level actually dropped.

In their words

The best work leaves homeowners with fewer questions.

Talk through your basement

“We had a radon test done when we were getting ready to finish our basement and the numbers came back a lot higher than we expected. Dan walked me through what needed to be done and where the system would go. Install was clean, they cleaned everything up when they were finished and our numbers dropped considerably. Very happy with the whole experience.”

Mark R.

“Dan and his crew were great. They installed a radon mitigation system and sealed our sump pit. I was worried about having a bunch of ugly piping running through the basement but they did a really nice job keeping everything tucked out of the way. Showed up on time, answered all my questions and the price was fair.”

Jessica H.

“We already had a radon system in the house but noticed our readings were starting to creep back up. Dan came out and figured out that the existing system wasn't doing what it should. He explained everything in plain English and got it taken care of without trying to sell us a whole new setup. Really appreciated that.”

Chris Miller

“Called after the inspection on the house we're buying showed elevated radon. We were on a pretty tight timeline because of closing and Dan was extremely helpful. He explained our options, got the system installed and made the entire process pretty painless. Communication was great and the finished install looks very clean.”

Amanda K.
Recent work

Radon Systems Installed
Across York County.

Clean routing, careful placement, and a finished system that works with the house—not against it.

Exterior radon mitigation pipe and fan routed along a tan York County home
Exterior system routed neatly to the roofline
Radon mitigation fan and vent pipe installed on a brick home in York County
Fan and vent piping on a brick exterior
Interior radon mitigation suction pipe with a U-tube manometer
Interior suction point and system manometer
Radon mitigation fan and vent pipe installed against light-colored siding
Compact exterior routing beside a patio
Where I work

Proudly Serving All of York County.

From downtown York rowhomes to newer construction out in the surrounding townships, I work all of it.

See the service area
The basics

What Is Radon, and Why Does It Matter in York County?

Radon is a colorless, odorless radioactive gas that occurs naturally in the soil and rock under every home in Pennsylvania. It enters through foundation cracks, sump pits, hollow block walls, and crawl spaces, pulled inside by ordinary pressure differences between your basement and the outside air. You can't see it, smell it, or feel it. Testing is the only way to know it's there.

The Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) recommends corrective action, mitigation, when a confirmed test result comes back at or above 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter), the EPA's action level. DEP estimates that roughly 40% of tested homes in Pennsylvania exceed that number, and the EPA classifies York County as Zone 1, its highest radon-potential tier, meaning testing is worth doing here regardless of a home's age or foundation type. The U.S. Surgeon General and EPA have both stated that long-term radon exposure is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers in the U.S. It's not an emergency in the sense of an immediate danger; it's a cumulative, long-term risk, which means there's no reason to panic, but every reason to fix it properly once you know it's there.

Roughly 40%of tested Pennsylvania homes exceed the EPA action level.
EPA Zone 1York County is in the EPA's highest radon-potential tier.
Reading the number

What Your Test Result Actually Means

A test result is reported in picocuries per liter (pCi/L), and it's only useful if you know what to do with the number. Results shift a little with weather, ventilation, and the season, so treat one result as solid evidence, not a permanent score for the house.

ResultWhat it meansWhat I'd do
Below 2 pCi/LLower exposure. No level is entirely risk-free, but this is a good result.Nothing urgent. Retest every couple of years or after major foundation work.
2 to 3.9 pCi/LBelow the EPA action level, but worth a look, especially with a finished basement, a bedroom down there, or young kids in the house.Worth a conversation. I'll walk the house with you and talk through whether mitigation makes sense for how you actually use the space.
4 pCi/L or higherThe EPA and PA DEP action level, the point where mitigation is recommended.Time to mitigate. I'll walk the foundation and get you a written number.
Short-term test near 4 pCi/LA single short-term result can be skewed by weather or how closed up the house was during the test.Run a longer test, or a second short-term test, before deciding anything.
The full process

How Radon Mitigation Actually Works

A mitigation system is built around your specific foundation, not a script. This is called active soil depressurization (ASD): on a poured basement slab it's usually sub-slab depressurization (SSD); on a dirt crawl space it's sub-membrane depressurization, which requires a sealed vapor membrane before the system can do its job. Here's what that looks like on most York County homes:

Interior radon mitigation system with sump cover, vent piping, and fan connections

Diagnostic Walkthrough

I check your foundation type, look for slab cracks and control joints, and open sump pits and crawl spaces to see how radon is entering your house.

Suction Point

One or more suction points get cut through your slab, or into a sealed crawl space membrane, so the vacuum reaches the whole slab, not just the spot near the pipe.

Vent Piping

Schedule 40 PVC pipe runs from the suction point out through the roofline, routed carefully so it stays out of your way and out of sight wherever that's possible.

The Fan

A radon mitigation fan runs continuously, day and night, pulling soil gas from under your home and venting it safely above the roofline, away from windows and doors.

Sealing

Slab cracks, control joints, and sump lids all get sealed airtight with a compatible sealant, so the system isn't fighting leaks it doesn't actually need to fight.

Manometer Install

A U-tube manometer, a clear tube with colored fluid, gets mounted on the pipe so you can see at a glance the system is pulling vacuum and still running.

Post-Mitigation Test

I retest the house after the system has run at least 24 hours, per DEP protocol, to confirm your radon level actually dropped below the action level.

Houses with a single, clean poured slab usually need one suction point. Stone or rubble foundations (common in older York homes), hollow block walls, additions with their own foundation, or a basement-plus-crawl-space combination usually need more. That's diagnosed at the walkthrough, not guessed at over the phone.

Full breakdown of testing methods on the Services page.

Exterior radon mitigation fan, vent piping, and electrical disconnect installed on a Pennsylvania home
Built to state standards

What Pennsylvania Requires on Every Installation

Radon mitigation in this state isn't just good practice, it follows specific PA DEP installation standards. Before a bid goes out, the foundation gets a full visual inspection: slab cracks, exposed earth in crawl spaces, open sump pits. Any sump pit that could let soil gas or conditioned air into the system has to be sealed with a radon-resistant cover. Every opening around a vent pipe penetration, at the floor-wall joint, or at a slab crack or control joint has to be sealed airtight with a compatible caulk or sealant. Floor drains and condensation drains that run into the soil beneath the slab need a radon-resistant drain fitted. I build every quote around these standards, not around whatever's fastest to install.

No surprise extras

Every Quote Is Written and All-Inclusive

A complete quote should cover, in writing, before I touch your basement:

  • The fan and vent piping
  • A sealed sump cover, if you need one
  • The manometer
  • The electrical hookup
  • The follow-up test

Not a base price with a list of extras that shows up on installation day. Ask any contractor directly whether the price can change once work starts, and what happens if the post-mitigation test comes back above 4.0 pCi/L.

Dan Jenkins preparing a radon mitigation fan beside his work truck
Repairs and retesting

Already Have a Radon System That's Not Working?

If your existing mitigation system is loud, silent when it used to hum, or your radon levels are back up even with the fan running, it's usually one of three things: a failed fan, a system that was never designed to reach your full foundation, or a change to your home (basement waterproofing, a French drain, a finished basement, an addition) that altered how air moves under the slab. I handle fan replacement and repair, system repair, and post-mitigation retesting, not just new installs.

See Radon Testing, Sump Pit Sealing, Mold Testing, and Indoor Air Quality on the Services page.

Questions

Plain Answers
to Common Worries.

No panic, no jargon. Just the things homeowners usually want to know before they decide what to do.

Is a Radon Level of 4 pCi/L Actually Dangerous?

4 pCi/L is the EPA and PA DEP action level, the point where they recommend mitigation, not a hard line between safe and unsafe. Risk increases with both concentration and how long you’re exposed. A confirmed result at or above 4 pCi/L is worth fixing; higher numbers or heavy time spent in the affected space make it more urgent.

What if My Test Comes Back Between 2 and 3.9 pCi/L?

That's below the EPA action level, so mitigation isn't automatically recommended, but it's still worth a conversation, especially if you've got a finished basement, a bedroom down there, or young kids spending time in the space. I'll walk the house with you and talk through whether it makes sense for how you actually live in it.

Can I Just Open My Windows to Lower Radon?

Temporarily, yes, but it doesn't fix the underlying entry pathway, and levels typically rebound once the house is closed up again. It's not a substitute for mitigation, especially heading into a York County winter when windows stay shut for months.

Does Finishing My Basement Increase My Radon Risk?

Not the radon level itself, but it increases your exposure, because you're likely to spend more time down there. A bedroom, office, or playroom means hours of exposure a day instead of occasional trips to do laundry.

Do Sump Pumps Cause Radon, or Can Mine Be Used for Mitigation?

An open or poorly sealed sump pit is a common radon entry point, not a cause, but a sealed, integrated sump cover can sometimes serve as part of the suction system. Whether yours works for that depends on your foundation, which we check during the walkthrough.

Can Radon Come Through Solid Concrete?

Yes. Radon moves through the microscopic pores in concrete itself, not just visible cracks, which is why sealing alone rarely solves an elevated reading without an active system pulling vacuum beneath the slab.

Do New Homes Have Radon Too?

Yes. House age doesn't determine radon risk; it's about the soil and rock underneath, not the building's age. Some newer homes have a passive radon pipe installed by the builder that can sometimes be activated with a fan; other times it's capped off inside a wall or has no stone base beneath the slab, and the job is more involved.

Why is My Radon Higher in Winter or After it Rains?

Heavy rain and saturated soil change how radon moves through the ground, and cold weather closes up the house and increases the stack effect that draws basement air, and the radon in it, upward into your living space. Short-term spikes during weather events are normal; what matters is the longer-term average.

Get your free estimate

Tell me what's going on in your basement

Start with a conversation